Tales from the Hair Chair
Hair loss.. What to do. When to give up.

Hair loss affects a large portion of the population. But Why is it happening? What can I do about it?

There are several factors that contribute to hair loss. Products, stress, styling, chemicals, medication and heredity are all contributing factors.

Product: If you are using heavy products, such as heavy waxes and pomades these can clog your follicles making then dormant and eventually kill them. You shed hair daily right from the follicle. It leaves that follicle open before the new hairs grow in. Heavy product will pack itself in there and stop new growth.

What to do: Try using a product that has less heavy or water soluble ingredients. If you like Murrays try Layrite. If you simply love your heavy product try using a more exfoliating shampoo like a clarifying shampoo. Also every week you can do a lemon treatment. After shampooing squeeze a lemon into you hair and “lather” the juice into your scalp. The citric acid will help disolve the product.

Stress: I’ve seen clients go through difficult personal situations and loose a LARGE portion of their hair. When you go through times of extreme stress your body can attack itself in interesting ways causing various problems to your health.

What to do: Patience. Your hair WILL grow back in these circumstances. Take vitamins. Eat healthy. Drink water. Meditate. Exercise. Your body will right itself when you are taking the proper steps.

Styling: If you wear your hair in a tight bun everyday you are going to get breakage and put tension on your scalp pulling your hair out. Every way you pull your hair back creates tension. Also, excessively wearing a hat can rub the hair right off of your head.

What to do: Change your habits. Letting your hair down is the best way to let it do it’s thing. If you pull your hair back more often than you wear it down consider a short haircut. It’ll be just as easy to style and you’ll probably look more polished anyway than straggly long hair. Also, limit wearing tight hats. 

Chemicals: If you are changing your color often or just have an extreme color from your natural then you are getting what hairstylists call a “chemical haircut”. Your hair will feel dry, frizzy and thinner that normal.

What to do: Make informed decisions about what color you choose. If you are going from one extreme to another do it gradually. Have some patience. Your hair can only handle so much. Don’t change your color too often. Consult a professional. Color can be very tricky and damaging. Fixing a mistake you did yourself could cost a lot of money and hair to fix.

Medication: Medication can mess with your body in crazy ways. I can’t even begin to go into the reasons since it really depends on your medication. 

What to do: Once again patience. If it’s a temporary medication then your hair will grow back. 

Heredity: It’s just in your genes. Male, Female pattern baldness can just be in your family. Thank your parents.

What to do: There are several solutions out there but they all seem to come with issues. If the follicles are dormant then I will address that in a moment. Follicles that are dead can sometimes be restored with products like Rogaine. The problem is that you have to continue to use them. Transplants can leave your hair looking very fake and leave a GIANT scar on the back of your head.

Treatment: If you have dormant hair you can stimulate it with certain hair treatments. Nioxin is one of my all time favorites. Although you have to continue to use it. There are fibrous powders that look pretty good but can run and bleed in heat.

Acceptance and how to deal: If you absolutely are loosing it cut it short. Nothing looks worse than long stringy hair. Cutting it short will actually make it look healthier.

The obsession with formaldehyde….

I recently stumbled across an article about the keratin treatment and decided to once and for all weigh in…

Here’s the original article.

http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/executive-summary/

My opinion and research:

I don’t feel as if the amount of formaldehyde in these treatments is enough to be hazardous to the point of serious concern. My best friend, who has a masters in chemistry, told me that even though there IS a chance for danger in large doses of the chemicals that there is not enough IN the treatments to be harmful. Also to consider is how the product is applied.

The straighteners are not supposed to be applied to the scalp. This means the only thing the product is applied to (if done correctly) it the hair itself. Hair is dead. Anything put on your hair ONLY doesn’t get absorbed into your body. It’s not as if you are lighting a wick. I feel like the most dangerous part of these treatment are the fumes. And if you are in a salon that takes the correct precautions and uses them in a large space that is well ventilated than this should not be a problem.

People have been know to get something in their craw to be warned about and it’s the next big paranoia. Ladies, we’ve been painting out nails with formaldehyde for years. Relax.

Spring Deals!!!

If you haven’t already heard I am having fantastic spring promotions!! 20% of all services. And if you bring a friend they also get the promo and you get an additional 10%!! I know you’ve been hibernating all winter. Time to freshen up for spring!! 212-260-6990

Hello, I noticed you know a lot about hair and I was wondering if you could help me. I have long hair, and I get split ends, which I trim regularly. I was wondering if there is anything I could do to prevent them all together? my hair is naturally curly so I blow dry and straighten my have once every 2 weeks, (since I know it's bad for you). I've heard that girls with long hair need to use treatments on their hair. I've looked around every where and I simply do not know what products are good are not. I'm hoping you could help!! I guess what I'm trying to say is, what are some good products to treat the ends of my dry/frizzy hair. And how often should I use this treatment?

Treatments usually aren’t done more than once a week. If most of the damage is on your ends focus on just putting the product there. Some treatments also have a lot of protein in them so over using them can have an opposite effect and make your hair more brittle. Curly hair also has a tendency to be a little more course. Of course a good shampoo and regular conditioner can make all the difference for regular maintenance.

For treatment there are a few lines that have great ones. Kevin Murphy has the Born Again Masque. L’Oreal Serie Expertise has various masques. And Keristase has a treatment line. These are all higher end. Also a good leave-in conditioner to use in addition to your regular shampoo and conditioner will help with protecting you ends from damage and dryness on a daily basis.

Hats aplenty.

Let’s face it. Sometimes you just don’t want to nor have the time to do your hair. Here’s a collection of some of my favorite classic hats.

TIP: Remember that you can’t just throw a hat on your straggly hair and expect to look polished. The hair that is still visible should still look tidy to give an elegant look.

Of course Aurdey would make my list. Just simply fabulous. I don't care if it's a Wednesday. Just wear it and own it!

Mad Hatting everyone!

Hey, I've noticed you know a lot about hair. And wanted some advice.
I had my natural brown color, with bleached to blue underneath it all. I wanted to go to a natural color so I dyed my hair brown twice. The blue is now a dark brown not matching to top of my hair and it has a green tint to it. What would be the best way to get my natural hair back without waiting for it to grow out for years?

First of what you have to understand is that your natural color in that section is gone. When you bleach your hair what happens is the bleach pulverises your natural color molecules. It breaks up the color within your hair into smaller particles so that light can then pass through it making it appear lighter. Then what happened when you tried to dye over the blue is that you probably used a warm brown. The brown probably had golden undertones. Since color is not opaque the gold and blue turned your undertone to green. It also grabbed darker than you probably expected because bleached hair is more porous. So since your hair has been bleached and then dyed twice you are getting into more dangerous territory damage wise. I always recommend going to a professional when it comes to color since it IS a science and can be very complicated but here are your options. If you don’t mind the depth of your blue section being a little darker then you can just combat the undertones. Since it’s a little on the green side you can get a gloss with a red undertone to balance that out. Glosses aren’t as harsh either. OR If it’s really bothering you then you’re getting into corrective color. Some stylists would lift the brown out with bleach. (EEK!) But there is also color remover that can remove it more gently. Once some of the depth is removed a color can be put over it to color it closer to your natural tone. But like I said these can be complicated and expensive. Good Luck!

Winter hair battles and what can help

Dear Winter,

My hair is a mess. The forced indoor heating and knit hats are making my hair dry! Please stop.

Sincerely,

Your hair

You’d think that winter wouldn’t be as harsh as the sun on us. The truth is any extreme weather causes us to treat our hair less than ideally. We are less prone to air dry. Forced indoor heating is drying causing frizz and dry scalp. Pulling those stocking caps over our heads rough up our texture. What can we do?

Well, aside from the normal conditioning treatments there are a few products out there that I am in LOVE with that can help. Let’s talk conditioning first. I am one of those stylists that think conditioning is an absolute MUST! Even for people with oily scalp. Your really don’t need conditioner right at your scalp anyway. You scalps natural oils will help take care of that naturally. Make sure those ends are getting moisture though!

I’d say once every week or so you should do a treatment. If you don’t wanna shell out the big bucks there are natural alternatives that can really help.

Lemons: I love lemons! I always keep them in my house for my skin and for my hair. Lemon squeezed fresh onto your scalp will help with that pesky dandruff. The natural citric acid will help pull out impurities, and slough off dryness and unclog pores. Also the natural vitamins will help nourish and keep your scalp healthy. Just Shampoo then rinse. Squeeze out excess water in your hair and squeeze in lemon juice on your scalp. Run your fingers through your scalp as if you were massaging it into you skin and let sit about 3 minutes. rinse and condition as normal. (before throwing that halved out lemon away rub it on those elbows to help heal dryness!!)

Coconut Oil: Coconut oil can be bought at any health food store. It usually runs anywhere from $10-15. You get this tub though that lasts forever! Just run it through your hair and leave it as long as you can. If you really want it to penetrate you can then wrap your head in celophane and the heat from your scalp will help open your cuticles so it absorbs more deeply. I also use coconut oil as a skin moisturizer, I put little spoon fulls in my cats food for healthy coats, and there are tons of recipes using it as well. You can even sleep with it in. When your done Shampoo well! You may need to shampoo twice, You’ll know if your shampoo doesn’t lather. Then condition ends as normal. (Coconut oil is great for dry feet/heels! It’s natural so it absorbs pretty quickly)

A few professional products I love!:

Biosilk Silk Therapy: I have loved this product for as long as I have been doing hair. It is just amazing. Absorbs quickly and super soft! It’s also not heavy so you can use it in fine hair. Great on your skin too! I once wore it on my skin to a black tie event where I work a strapless dress. My boyfriend kept commenting about how soft my skin was.

Kevin Murphy- Easy Rider: This stuff is butter. Literally. It’s made with green tea, tangerine oil, lavender, jasmine, and biotin. Once your hair is dry a dab of this will smooth fly aways and frizz like magic. And it smells so darn good you wanna eat it. (not advised)

I’ll add more of my favorite products in the future! Happy Valentine’s Day to you and your hair!

The job hunt… my New York Journey

This entry is more of a personal and less of an educational entry.This is the first time I am speaking publicly about my personal experiences at these businesses. This is all from my perspective.

Since moving to New York nearly 6 years ago I’ve had a problem finding a salon that are both friendly and professionally efficient. The last two salons I had worked at in Michigan totaled 8 years so the fact that I have now been at 6 salons in 6 years is beginning to be frustrating. The number one problem is craziness in management. It’s absurd here!

The first salon I worked at was Rare in Tribecca. I worked there for about two months before I was fired from my first job ever for “Not being a good fit for the team.” The story goes as this. They were very much a young and tight knit group when I started. They hired me to assist and train for a few months before I was told I’d get a chair. I hadn’t assisted in a long time but the opportunity to work with the owner Ruth and learn from her was too good to pass up. She was and is brilliant. I got to bring in as many models as I wanted, got to go on photo shoots and learned a fountain of new techniques and perfected my craft. That part of it was great. The problem lied in the other staff. The color specialist was 6 years younger than my and had about half the experience that I had and I felt like she found that threatening. Numerous time I tried to talk to her and be nice to her only to get back snotty comments which I just blew off. One day she was at the front desk on Myspace and I walked up and said, “oooh, I’m telling.” In a joking manner. I mean, come on! I was close to thirty. I’m long past the day of tattling and I was just making a joke. She scowled at me then looked away. About an our later she asked to speak to me outside. The conversation went something like “I’m your superior here and you need to respect me.” I was blown away. I assured her I had no disrespectful intentions and I was just joking around. I was fired two days later.

The next salon I worked at was Wayne Tomas Salon. The salon had been open for a year and was bright and shiny and empty. They had ample space for stylists yet they only had 3 employees. Upon working for this place I immediately felt under their thumb. If we didn’t have clients we were required to stand in front of the salon and pass out our business cards. If you’ve ever tried to pass anything out on the street in New York you understand how humiliating this can be. They also had an insane dress code that were listed on the document I had to sign when I started called the “Policies and Procedures”. Still new to New York I agreed to only wear white, black, grey or blue shirt and black or grey skirts or pants. They also had a very strict no socializing with the clients policy. Being a hairstylist new to the city I felt like socializing in a big part of building my clientele. Clients invite me to see their plays, shows, bands ect. One day I had a client that was in town and in a touring band from Finland. He invited not only I but the entire staff to come see the show and put us on the guest list. I did not ask him but he didn’t know anyone here and the show was for a big magazine so I thought it’d be a great way to network. The next day I received a call from the salon that they were giving me a week off to review the policies and procedures and think about what I’d done wrong. They also notified me this was also because I wore a red belt one day that week and red was not one of their official salon colors. (Yet my hair was candy apple red from the moment they hired me.) I used that week to find another job and when I showed up after that week 3 minutes late dues to construction on my train they said “You obviously need to take today off to and get it together.” To which I replied, “No, I quit.” The few months I worked there I kept hearing of all these people that used to work there and from what I gathered they had a lot of people quit after a short time. Should have been a big red flag.

The next place I worked at was Enve in the lower east side. I was at Enve for 2 years. I became friends with the owner. We worked closely together as she was only a cutter so I just did color there and all my haircuts on the side. It worked well there for a while until I started discovering some erratic behavior from her. She wouldn’t order color so I had a really hard time formulating some days for lack of product. She wouldn’t anwser the phone and clients made appointments by e-mail. Sometimes she wouldn’t return e-mails for a few days. I lost quite a few clients from that and all the while she started blaming me. The last straw for me was when I didn’t get a paycheck for 3 weeks. I called to let her know I needed to come in and get my check and of course had to leave a message. When I showed up she told me she didn’t have any money and her phone was dead. I mean, how are clients going to book an appointment if you don’t answer. When I told her I was leaving she admitted to me that she stopped caring. Although this was painfully obvious it was nice to hear her admit it. So we parted ways.

Then there was Pimps and Pinups. *sigh* Where to begin. I was so excited to start working there being as they were a vintage inspired salon. I started there in October a few years ago. The salon had 8 chairs and opened with a staff of 4 stylists. We were all very excited and started off doing press for the New York Post. We all did a before and after model and there was a spread done. A few weeks into being open they notified us of all these additional fees they were going to charge us. The first stylist then left. By December the recession hit and the doom set in. It was terrible. 3 stylists, the manager, and a receptionist working 6 days a week 10 hours a day in an empty salon. We would all sit around the entire day and only 1 client would come in. We were all extremely depressed. I wondered if I’d have to move back to Michigan because it didn’t seem to be better anywhere else either. By the spring the owners in London were concerned and one of them came over to foresee what the problem was immediately blaming the staff. As the snow melted we got a little busy. By this point I was the go-to person for press and we were doing tons of it. I was getting interviewed and doing models from different blogs and web sites. I was doing the managers and staff of local hotels. The send out press releases promoting me as their vintage hair expert. I was finally at a place I though believed in me. They were cutting corners as much as they could though and ever expense was gone through with a fine tooth comb. This was about the time they sent their “spy” from London who would be the first link in my downfall. The receptionist they sent over was going to take over the color ordering duties which was something I did just to help out the manager since he didn’t know color. I made a very easy to follow chart based on what we had used. They agreed to let me use a few colors from different lines since my red-heads were picky and the colors were brighter and better. One day a very good client of mine had shown up and we didn’t have her color. You can’t make red. She had ordered a babysitter and had come from uptown. When I said to the receptionist we needed to send someone out she snapped back at me, “Well, how much color do you need?” “Two tubes” I replied. (The client have very thick curly hair and I needed to pull the color all the way through her ends) “Two tubes! That’s absurd! Do they know you use that much color!?! I’m going to tell London! They’re going to be so upset you use that much!” All the while my client is sitting upstairs. I was advocating for my client and said we can discuss that later but the receptionist pressed on until I finally snapped. “This is how I was trained. I’ve been doing hair for over 10 years. Are you, as a receptionist, going to sit there and tell me I don’t know how to do my job? I have a client up there waiting. Go get the color!” Now, in hindsight I may have handled that different. But I got really sick of hearing, “In London they do this… or that…” The brilliant woman I trained under once said something very profound to me. “There are many roads that lead to Rome”. After a few more months they hired a cocky 26 year old. Immediately this girl was a snotty know it all. She never said hello in the morning and was generally just cold. During this whole time they went through stylist after stylist. Hiring and firing, hiring and firing. I was the only remaining original employee. Since the color incident I started to feel a coldness. There began to have secretive meetings behind closed door. My clients would be in other peoples chairs. Then the other owner came for his first real visit since the salon had been open. By the time he left the 26 year old stylist was made creative director and my career sabotaged. She would bark power hungry orders at the entire staff. Everyone hated being there. There was a general awful feeling in the salon when she was there. Then I fell down the stairs. I was carrying a handful of towels and slipped and cracked my head on the drop ceiling. I sat in the break room until my hands started to shake and my eye turned purple. Around the time I almost threw up I got scared and grabbed my stuff announcing that I was going to the hospital. After sitting in the emergency room for several hours and them determining I had a concussion they sent me on my way with a note for several days off. My depth perception was off for a good week. (something I realized several days later when I tried to twirl baton for a show at the slipper room and kept dropping it). When I returned to work the creative director and I had a blow out because she was mad she had to come in and do my clients and one of them was unhappy. Not my fault. A few weeks later I was notified I was going to be fired so I just quit. Up until the week I was going to be let go I remained doing all of their high priority clients. It still baffles me as to how much that place used me.

After the Pimps and Pinups devastation I decided I was too traumatized to work for another salon so I went freelance. The haunting of Pimps and Pinups continued as several of my clients were confirmed at Pimps and when they showed they’d say “Michelle’s not here anymore, but we have someone better.” Or they would just tell them I wasn’t there and hang up. I lost a lot of people around this time too because of another set of lay-offs in what seemed like every industry. I got by this taking care of the clients that remained and working as a trainer for a company that makes hair styling tools.

By the beginning of December I realized I needed to get back into a salon and get serious about writing my book. I picked up 3 days a week at Shampoo Avenue B. It was fine at first but was cramped. Every day I would come in I’d have to search the salon for who had used my clippers, brushes, diffuser, blow dryer… My stuff would be scattered. One day I woke up with a fever of 102 and the assured me no one could do my clients and they couldn’t be rescheduled. I went in and worked an 8 hour day with a fever. (something I hate doing since I feel I can’t give 100%). There was one other incident that I’m not proud of but completely out of my control. I got new upstairs neighbors and their partying had become a problem. Finally at 6:30 am the quieted down and I was able to doze off until my cat, Fred, decided he wanted attention. Every Time I’d fall back asleep Fred would be there pawing at my face and meowing. And I slept completely through my alarm. When I woke up 20 minutes after I had to be to work I called immediately. I jumped up and got to work in 30 minutes. Record time. I assured the owner this was out of my character and thought we smoothed it over until the rumors started. Another stylist informed me that he was telling the other stylists I was a “pathological liar”. This was something that hurt me to the very core of who I am. I pride myself on being honorable. Almost to a fault and have often been described as blunt or harsh by my peers. I just don’t have the energy to mince words. Nor do I feel it’s necessary. I sat with the owner and discussed this with him stating, “I you feel that way about me then you have no respect for me. If you have no respect for me and still want me to work here then you are using me and I can’t work for another salon where I feel I am just used as a tool to make you money.” He agreed to wipe the slate clean and start over. My next day of work there was snow everywhere. Traffic on the bridge was at a stand still and I sat on the Brooklyn side of the bridge in a car for 35 minutes. At 34 years old I am never purposefully late. New York is an unpredictable place. So alas, I was 15 minutes late and subsequently fired the end of the day.

So this brings me to now. Trying to find a salon not owned by the complacent, lazy, petty, drama filled or egotistical. I feel as though my efforts to find such a place can be compared to the search for a yeti, or Nessie. Or this journey could be comparable to finding other intelligent life in the universe. Please let there be other intelligent life out there in the salon-iverse!

Undertones and Toners.. (introduction to the color wheel)

You remember art class in school right? That fun little color wheel which you forgot because you thought wasn’t important. Well, it’s time to revisit it my friend. I know you’ve all gone and browsed through the hair color at your local drug store. You see colors call warm brown and ash blond. What does all this warm and cool buisness mean? Hello, color wheel….



Color is classified at warm and cool colors. The red, orange and yellows are warm colors. The green, blue and violets are cool colors. When you see someone with really beautiful rich golden brown hair it’s because there are some warm undertones in that brown. And blondes that seem to not have any warmth in their hair… that’s probably due to some cool toner.

How it works is this. All haircolor has undertones to it. Naturally people tend to have undertones that swing one way or another. Warm or Cool. This is dependent a lot of the time by what color your skin is since your hair color is just melanin from your skin. That’s right! Did I totally just blow your mind or what. Your hair color is the same stuff that makes you tan! Or in my case not tan. :D To combat these sometimes unwanted tones we have to look back at our color wheel. Whatever is across from the color you have neutralizes it. So say your hair is a really red brown and you want it less red. We’d put in a bit of green. Yellow is canceled by violet. And Blue cancels Orange. Color theory in a nutshell.

So what about toners. I briefly mentioned the toners in my last blog about lightening. As you may recall hair lightens all the same! It always goes to those warm tones. We combat this by using toners. Toners are a more pastel version of this warm and cool colors. But here’s a example of what they can do.




It’s our jobs a stylists to be able to recognize and control these tones in hair. Generally our color lines come in more detail then your box brand generalizations of ash or warm. Ours come in number and letter combinations that help us determine how much cool or warm and what type of coolness or warmth we need to personalize your color.

Good Shampoo and Conditioner & The haunting of Pantene

I have a personal problem with Pantene. Pantene has been messing with me since my very first salon job as an assistant in a middle class suburb of Detroit. People there thought they were treating themselves by purchasing the most expensive drug store brand they could find. Client after client showed up with their fried out waxy pantene coated hair. I had to clarify every single one of them.

I’ve felt like a parrot with this speech in the salon. I HATE store bought products. Here’s my speech:

Store bought shampoos and conditioners are made by companies that make things such as floor wax and toilet bowl cleaner. Even the herbal, ‘healthy’, and organic ones are not made by people that study hair. Sure they may make your hair feel clean and not tangley. So why not just save your money and use them? Most of what I see in clients that aren’t using a professional salon brand is that they are dry dry dry! And just because your shampoo says professional on it doesn’t mean it is. Store bought shampoos are like detergents. They can be very abrasive and drying.

The major problem with being cheap about your products lays in conditioners. Aside from just plain not being moisturizing enough they use waxes and oils that just coat your hair. That may seem all fine and good when you rinse your hair and it feels slick and easy to comb through. But that doesn’t mean it’s conditioned. What’s happening is you are sealing your hair off from any nutrients and moisture. Over time using these products your hair becomes more dry and brittle. Ever notice when you get in the shower and it takes a few minutes of the water running on it before it really feels wet. Yeah, coated!

So what should you get that won’t break your budget?

Well first of all since you are used to using crappy product you’ve probably been using too much. Professional brands tend to have a thicker richer lather and go a bit further. Be smart about choosing your shampoo. Buy stuff that is for your hair type. (thick, coarse, dry, fine, colored ect) Most brands have something that will fit into any of those combinations. If you are someone that wants organic there are a ton of brands out there that are now that are fantastic. (Kevin Murphy and ABBA are my two favorites right now) If organic doesn’t matter but price does there are some brands that are on the more cost sensitive side. They are not as cheap as store bought but they also won’t leave your hair feeling like tinsel. (Try Redken, Bed Head, or MOP)
If money is no object and you want to be completely spoiled try Kerastase, l’oreal serie, Rene Furterer, or Phytologie.

Remember that advertisements are designed to get you to buy things. I’ve worked on photo shoots and lighting and photo retouching gives hair completely unrealistic expectations. Those people have fantastic advertising teams.

About a month after quiting the pantene infested salon I was at an outdoor festival. Some lovely people were handing out sample bags of Pantene shampoos and conditioner. I politely declined. Later in that day I had run into the best friend of an x-boyfriend. We were having a lovely conversation when just then some stranger thought it would be funny to throw one of those little satin pouched Pantene bombs into the crowd of people and directly into my face. I blinked for a second not knowing what had just happened and glanced at the ground to find…. clenching my fist and shaking them at the heavens I screamed “CURSE YOU PANTENE!” The old acquaintance stepped slowly away from me. I’m sure in fear about my mental stability. To this day every time a client says they “just use pantene” it feels like to me that they just hit me in the face.